There are a few fan favorites such as *Squeenix and Simple MiniMap, but those are long out of date. I chose to try everything I could find, as usual, but some are so old I have no clue how long they'll last.
Yet Another Square MiniMap (YASMM) is very current and pretty simple. It offers the basic features of mouse scroll, square texture, and hiding of the normal objects, day/night, zoom, and world map. You can also choose which corner it's anchored too, but cannot just move freely (may be coming soon). You can also minimize the map to just see the zone text, which is handy for the super-minimalists. At a tiny 5k this is probably the map for most people.
IDMiniMap did pretty much the same things, but you couldn't move it, couldn't minimize it, and it was still a circle... and it was twice the memory.
My favorite ended up being the easy vMiniMap. A little heftier than YASMM, but in my opinion (that's why you're reading right?) it looks better. vMiniMap also comes with built in map coordinates, which is nice to not have to constantly swap to your world map once you get close. You can also place the MiniMap anywhere you'd like.
If you're the "big taco" kinda interface RicoMiniMap or Simple MiniMap (funny name, I know) may be more up your alley. A lot of cool features, multiple skins, and lots of flexibility. Pretty much anythign you'd like from your MiniMap... well, no they won't make you tacos. mmm tacos.
or go small
you're MiniMap can do it all!
*squeenix author Tekkub says he is not the one updating the mod anymore, so use at your own discretion!